En el hogar (9 & 10 de diciembre)

Engari te pai o te oho i tō māua moenga ake! Kua tino tau te noho ki Temuco. Otirā, kāore mātou i tino puta, he wā kē hei whakatā, hei tuku karere. Ka kōrerorero hoki māua ko Tamsin mo te pukapuka.

Ko tētahi o ngā tino mahi ko te whāngai i ngā manuhiri ki ngā empanadas a Luisa. Na te maha i pau i mōhiotia ai te reka. Ahakoa te nui o te almuerzo, ka puta i te pō rā, ā, ka haere ma raro ki te wharekai Lola, kai ai i te asado criollo, arā, ko ngā kaokao kau ka āta tunua i runga i te wahie mō ngā hāora e whā! Te mutunga mai o te reka. I muri i ngā pisco sours e rua, me te waina tino pai, kua kaha rawa a Tamsin ki te katakata. Te waimarie nō mātou i hīkoi ai, ā, ka tae tika ki te kāinga.

I te rangi i muri mai ka whāngaia mātou ki te pollo arverjado a Luisa. Kua mahia te hupa heihei mā Troels i te mea i te raruraru tana puku i te rerenga kētanga o te kai (me te nui o  te mīti). Ka peka atu a Aroha mā ki te mākete. Ka hoki mai ka wehe atu ki Pucón.

Ka noho mātou ki las Cabañas Playa Linda (i waenganui i Villarica me Pucón), he pai rawa tō māua kāuta, he rawe hoki te wāhi. Ka tau te noho, ka taraiwa atu ki te maunga puia o Villarica. Engari te pai o te tirohanga atu ki te roto me ngā maunga kē atu. I te tino rata a Troels ki ngā hanga maunga puia o Chile.

Ka heke i te maunga, ka taraiwa tonu ki Pucón rapu ai i te wharekai! Engari te pai o te kai i taua pō, me te waina hoki! Ka hoki ki te kāuta moe ai...

El poder español (8 de diciembre)

I te ata ka kuhu au i taku tarau poto, i taku tīhāte, i ōku hū omaoma (!), ā, ka hīkoikoi haere i te taha o te awa. Koina te wā tuatahi mo te wā roa – engari te pai!

Ka hoki atu ki te hōtera, kua kai kē ngā hoa nō reira ka whawhao i ngā pēke, ka utaina ki runga i El Tanque, ā, ka hīkoi atu ki te mākete. He tino pai ki a au te mākete o Valdivia – ko ngā tini momo ika, ko ngā kaimoana e hia kē, ā, kei te taha ngā lobos marinos me ngā pelícanos e tatari ana i ngā hukenga. Kārangaranga ana ngā tāngata, e ngengere ana ngā kekeno, e tīwē ana ngā manu. Te rawe hoki! 

Kīhai i roa (e kore rawa e roa!), ka whakatata mai tētahi tangata e pātaritari ana i te tangata kia eke ki runga i tana waka tirotiro haere ai. Otirā, he pai te utu nā reira i whakaae atu ai. Ka piki ki La Plaza de Armas por un rato, ā, ka hoko kawhe, ā, ka hoki ki te wāpu eke ai ki runga i te waka.

Tō mātou waimarie hoki! He rawe te terenga i runga i te waka. He tino matatau te kaiārahi, he tino tere hoki ngā kaimahi. I ratongia mātou ki te pisco sour, ki te kai nui (salmón), ki te pūrini, ā, i te ahiahi rānō ki te kawhe me te hanawiti.

Ka teretere haere i runga i ngā awa e toru o Valdivia, arā, ko te Calle Calle, ko te Caú Caú, ko te Río Cruces. Hei te pūtahitanga karangia ai te awa ko te Valdivia. Ka nui ngā momo manu i kitea, ko te wāna pane pango tētahi, ānō kua toro iho te pane me te kakī ki roto i te mimiha! He mā te toenga o te tinana.

Ka whai te waka i te awa tae noa ki te waha. I reira ngā pā tūwatawata e whā a ngā Pāniora. Kua tae kē māua ko Aroha ki te pā o Niebla i te taha o Quemel mā. I tēnei wā, ka mātua peka atu ki te moutere ko Mancera. I whakaingoatia mo don Pedro Álvarez de Toledo y Leiva, marqués de Mancera (c1585-1654). Ko ia te virrey (māngai kīngi) o Perū (he wāhanga a Chile no te virreinato de Perú). Ko San Pedro de Alcántara te ingoa o te fortaleza (pā tūwatawata) ake. He ngāwari te wawata mo te wā i a rātou, i ngā Paniora. I hangaia hoki ngā pā i te mea kua kaha ngā Tatimana i taua takiwā. E kī rā, me haere ki tērā taha o te ao pakanga ai i ngā tāngata noho tata! Otirā, he rawe te kāinga iti i te taha o te pā, me ngā cerezos (rākau tiere) e kī ana i te hua!

Ka haere mātou i reira ki Corral. Ka piki māua ko Troels ki te fortaleza, engari ka haere kē a Aroha rāua ko Tamsin ki te mākete. Ehara māku hei kī atu! Ka āta hoki atu ki te tāone. Ka whakaaturia mai ngā tohu o te  maremoto (parawhenuamea) o te tau 1960, he wāhanga no te rūwhenua nui rawa o te ao – 9.5 i te tāhei Richter!

Ka hoki ki uta, ka ekengia El Tanque, ā, ka tere atu ki Temuco. Ka poto te whakatā, ka haere ma raro ki te rapu wharekai. I te tōmuritanga kua kati a Pura Carne, ā, ka haere atu ki te pūtahitanga, ā, ka tae atu ki te wharekai Rapanui. Ka mutu, ka hoki ki te moe.

Kātahi te rangi pai! 

La naturaleza de la costa

Ka oho i te ata i tō mātou whare noho, i Las Cabañas Pleno Centro, kia kite kāore he hiko. Kāore he hiko i te tāone katoa! Nā reira i hoko ai i ngā kai me te miraka mahana (!) hei parakuihi.

Ka wehe i Castro, ka hoki atu ki Ancud, ā, ka haere i reira ki te tai hauāuru, ki Te Moana-nui-a-Kiwa. Ka tae ki te tāone iti rawa o Puñihuil. Kei reira ētahi whare hararei, ētahi wharekai  me ngā tini kaiārahi e hiahia ana kia eke ngā tāngata ki runga i ō rātou poti. Ko te take, he pingüinera (wāhi kōhanga karora).

Ka mātua haere ki tētahi o ngā wharekai kai ai i ngā empanadas de locos (pāi pāua), he reka. Ka mutu, ka heke ki tētahi o ngā rōpū harihari tūruhi, ā, ka haere atu ki te wai eke ai i te waka. I te tuatahi ka titiro ki ngā karora Magallanes (‘Magellan’ en inglés), kātahi ka whakawhiti atu ki te moutere e noho ai ngā karora Humboldt. He Haponihi rawa tō māua hanga ko Troels, e tangotango ana i ngā tini whakaahua.

Ehara i te mea, he karora anahe. I reira hoki ko ngā kūihi moana, ko ngā kawau, ko ngā karoro ... ko ngā nutria (ota). I te āta whai te waka i te nutria e ngana ana ki te kai i te pāpaka nui. Ka hurihuri haere i te wai e karo ana i ngā maikuku nui o te pāpaka. I te mutunga ake i totohu te pāpaka ki te papa o te moana!

Ka kōrerorero māua ko te kaiurungi mō ngā manu. He tāngata māhaki, engari he nui tōna aroha ki te moana me ōna manu. Ka tohu atu ki tētahi rakiraki rere kore. He ririki noa ngā paihau, ā, ko tā te rakiraki ko te omaoma haere i te kahu o te moana! Me tāna, he tere rawa te oma. Nāku te whakataukī, ‘Ka rere te kawau’, i whakamārama atu, ā, ka kata noa. Ko tāna, ka kōrerohia atu ki ngā tūruhi a muri ake nei!

Ka hoki ki uta, ka au i te wai mārama, ā, ka hoki atu ki Ancud. Ka kai i te hōtera nui o reira, engari, he pērā me te nuinga o te hōtera pērā (nō ngā tau 1970), ehara te kai i te tino pai. Ka mutu, ka haere tonu ki te peripoti whakawhiti atu ai ki tuawhenua.

Ka tere te haere ki te raki, ki Valdivia, ā, ka peka atu ki te hōtera i noho ai māua ko Aroha i te Akuhata. Ahakoa ko te raumati kua heke te utu! Ka rite, ka hīkoi atu ki te tāone i te taha o te awa. Engari ngā karu o Troels i te wā i kite ai i ngā lobos marinos gigantes (kekeno nunui) e noho ana i te taha o te ara hīkoi. Ahakoa aku kōrero ki a ia i a mātou i Chiloé, kāore i aro mai!

Ka peka atu ki te wharekai cena ai. Kua tata hemo a Tamsin i te hiamoe, ānō he pononga hiko sin pilas (kāore he pūhiko)!

El viaje continua (5 y 6 de diciembre)

Ka oho moata, mehemea he moata te 8:00 am! Ka wehe atu i Puerto Montt, ā, ka haere ki Pargua tae atu ai ki te peripoti. I mua tonu i te taenga atu ka peka atu ki te kai parakuihi. Ka kai i ngā hēki kōrorirori me te tīhi, engari na te kaha o te tīhi i kino ai te kai. Ko te kawhe ko te Nescafé. Ā, kia hoki atu ki te kawhe o Aotearoa! Wawata ai au i ngā café plano blanco...

Ka eke ki runga i te peripoti, ā, ka tere atu i runga i te moana marino ki te moutere o Chiloé. I a mātou e whakawhiti atu ana kite atu ai i ngā pelícanos me ngā lobos marinos (wūruhi moana – kekeno). Ka ū ki Chacao, ka haere tonu ki te tāone o Ancud. Ka piki ki El Fuerte San Antonio, ki te pā whakamutunga i tau ai ngā Pāniora i Chile. No te tau 1826 i wehe atu ai.

Ka heke anō ki te tāone, ki te whare kai Kurantón. Koina te wāhi rongonui o Ancud mo te kai curanto, koina te hāngi o Chiloé. Ka tunua ki roto i te kōhua nui i roto i te whenua. Engari te nui o ngā pereti i tae ki te tēpu – papas cocidas (rīwai kōhua), milcao (rīwai maoa me te rīwai mata), chapalele (rīwai maoa me te parāoa puehu), longanizas (notinoti), pollo (heihei), carne (mīti), cholgas (kuku), almejas (tuangi), arvejas (pī), porotos (pīni). Me te reka hoki o te wairanu! He aha anō i te taha? Koina, he pisco sours!

Ka puta puku tenga ki waho, ā, ka hōnekeneke atu ki el Tanque. Ka taraiwa i Ancud ki Delcahue, ā, ka whakawhiti atu ki te moutere iti o Quinchao ma runga peripoti. Ka tau ki te whare noho i te tāone o Achao, ka haere ma raro ki te wāpu. Te pai o te ahiahi! Kāore he kapua, he rawe te matangi, he ātaahua te moana i waho... he paru rawa te tahatika! I te whiu noa ngā kaihī me ngā kaihao i ngā hukenga ika ki te wai. I reira hoki ngā tamariki e kau ana!

I te ata i muri i haere atu ki te tirotiro ki te whare karakia. He rongonui ngā whare karakia o Chiloé. Hangaia ai ki te rākau, ka nui ngā mahi whakapaipai o roto. Me te pai o te wairua! Ka mutu, ka haere tonu ki te pito o te moutere, hīkoikoi ai i te taha o te moana. Ka kite i te whare e tika ana mōku me ngā pukapuka.

Ka hoki ki te moutere o Chiloé, ka taraiwa atu ki te tāone matua o reira, ki Castro. He tino pai te hanga o te tāone, he rawe rawa atu te hanga o te whare karakia. Engari te pai o ngā pakitara me te tuanui rākau o roto! Ka haere atu ki te miha, koina te wā tuatahi i Chile. Ko te kai o te pō, he pescado (ika) me ngā ... pisco sours.

Un lago increíble (el 4 de diciembre)

Ka oho i te ata, ka konihi atu ki te wharepaku. Me haere ma te rūma moe o Tamsin rāua ko Troels! Koina te pai o El Hostal Vista Hermosa! Ka rite, ka heke ki te pūtahitanga o Puerto Montt rapu ai i te parakuihi. Kia tae atu ki La Plaza de Armas (te marae matua o te tāone) kua pai te hanga. He rangi ātaahua, ā, he pai te tirohanga atu ki te moana ki te tonga.

Ka hīkoi atu ki te barrio de Angelmo. He tiriti roa rawa e tūtū ana ngā tini pātaka hokohoko. He rawe ā rātou taonga – he mea whatu, he rākau whakairo, he pūeru. Kei te pito he mākete kaimoana. Te nui o ngā momo mātaitai. Ka hokona te hāmana pāwhara.

Ka hoki whaka te pūtahitanga ka peka atu ki te wharekai almorzar ai. Te reka o ā mātou kai – pisco sours, merluza (uturi), jaiva (pāpaka), congrio (hokarari), locos (pāua!), sopaipillas (parāoa parai). Kua waia pai ngā hoa ki te kai chilena. I te hokinga ki te hostal ka hoko a Troels i te hāte e mau ana te hanga o tētahi Selk’nam no La Tierra del Fuego, he tāne tahanga e whakaari ana i te wairua kino i te wā o ngā mahi whakatāne. Ki a au nei, he mahi poka noa te mau hāte pērā, ina kūware ki te iwi. Kei runga te whakaahua i hoaina ai te pikitia i runga i tana hāte.

I te ahiahi i taraiwa atu ki te roto o Llanquihue. He rite ki a Taupō te hanga, engari huri noa he maunga puia – ko Osorno, ko Puntiagudo, ko Calbuco. He maunga whakamīharo, no más. Me te mārama o te wai. Ka haere tonu i reira ki tētahi atu roto, ko Petrohué te ingoa. Me kī, he awaawa waipuke. Huri noa ngā maunga teitei e tare iho ana. Kei pōhēhētia kei tētahi o ngā roto o Te Moana Pounamu!

Ko te maunga puia, ko Osorno te mea ātaahua rawa. He koeko pū te hanga, ā, ka tū i mua i ngā roto ānō ko ia te rangatira o ngā rangatira. He whenua ātaahua rawa a Chile! Titiro ki te whitiata nei no Petrohué:

Un viaje con amigos

Kua hoki māua ko Aroha ki Temuco. Kia rima anō ngā rā ka haere atu ki Argentina. Engari i hea māua i ngā rangi i hipa atu nei?

I te Wenerei, i te 3 o Tīhema, ka wehe atu māua ki te tonga ma runga i El Tanque, i te Jeep Cherokee i tukuna mai e te rangatira o te whare pākoro. Engari te pai o te taraiwa! 120 kiromita i te hāora te tere i runga i te rori matua (Ruta 5) – he rawe! Kei El Tanque te control cruise, hei reira ngāwari ai te taraiwa, kāore te waewae e mamae.

Ka tae atu ki Puerto Montt, kia 320 kiromita ki te tonga, ka kimi haere i te whare noho. I muri i te tautohetohe haere mo te mapi ka tae atu. I runga i tētahi hiwi i te taha o te teihana carabinero (pihimana). Ko te ‘Hostal Vista Hermosa’ te ingoa, arā, ko te whare noho me te tirohanga pai. Koina anahe te hanga pai o taua whare rā! Otirā he wahine pai te rangatira.

Ka waiho i ngā pēke, ka haere atu ki te taunga rererangi tūtaki atu ai i ngā hoa. Kua roa a Tamsin e rangahau ana i ngā tikanga Tātai o Te Koutu. No Ahitereiria ia, ā, no Tanamāka tōna hoa tāne a Troels. Ka hoki atu mātou katoa ki te whare noho. Ka aroha hoki ngā hoa! Ka ohorere i te hanga ao tuatoru o Puerto Montt me tō te whare noho!

Heoti, i te hiahia māua ko Aroha kia ako a Tamsin rāua ko Troels ki te pai o te kai chilena, ahakoa tō rāua ngenge i te roa o ngā rerenga. Ka haere atu ki te tāone tūtata o Pelluco. Ka tae atu ki te wharekai El Fogón de Cotelé. Ko te tangata whakaū waka he ruatanga tangata noa iho. Kāore ōna waewae, ānō ka mutu atu te tinana i raro tonu i te puku! Ka nukunuku haere me ngā poraka kei ngā ringa. Koina te wā tuatahi i kite ai a Tamsin mā i ngā tāngata pērā. Kua waia māua ko Aroha i ngā tini haerenga ki México. Ka tango whakaahua a Troels i a māua ko taua tangata rā engari kāore te whakaahua i puta pai.

He paku te wharekai, he tēpu e taka ana i te ahi matiti. Hei tīmatanga he pisco sours. Ka rata atu rāua! Ka haria mai te mīti kia whirihia atu ngā tapahanga. Ka ohorere rawa rāua i te rahi o te mīti i whirihia. Engari te kanohi o Troels i te ngaunga tuatahi i te mīti! Ko tāna, kātahi anō ka kai i te mīti e pērā ana te pai. Ka pai, e Chile! Me te waina, ka nui ngā mihi! Ka hoki ngata rawa ki te whare noho!

Hace calor, hace mucho calor

Āna, he wera, he tino wera! Kei konei au e noho ana i te rūma noho, he wai mirumiru, he tiere kei te taha. Kāore he hāte engari he tāora e iri ana i te tūru roa kei heke te werawera i te rera. Ahakoa te pai o te tūru kiri kau (me te nui o te utu), ka kino i te rangi e pēnei ana te wera! Kei te pouaka tio hoki te pia Calafate e makariri ana...

I te ata nei kua mākū pai ngā kēkē i mua i te taenga atu ki te tūranga tēkihi, e whā noa iho ngā poraka! Ka kī te tēkihi i taku ekenga atu. Na tōku āwangawanga kei haunga aua kēkē i pākaru mai ai te werawera, ā, kīhai i roa kua mākū hoki te rae me te tuarā! Te waimarie i tae maroke au ki te kura.

Ka uaua hoki te whakatau i ngā ākonga i te wera. Kua korikori, kua kaparangi i ngā akomanga iti rawa. Ka hoki ki te kāinga ānō e kā ana ōku tōkena i te ahi! Almorzamos (Ka tina) ka hoki atu ki te whare wānanga mo te akoranga Pāniora ma runga colectivo (tēkihi rau pāhehe).

Ka mutu te akoranga ka hoki mai ma raro. Kātahi anō ka rongo i te ngau a te rā - hū! tōna kaha! Chuta! Ka peke atu ki te toa Santa Isabel hoko ai i te pisco me ngā cerveza (pia). He uaua rawa te taha atu i ngā puestos de frutas (pātaka huarākau). Hōpurupuru rawa ana ngā hua i te wera. Engari te kakara o ngā rōpere, o ngā tiere, o ngā āpirikoti, o ngā pītiti! No te wiki tonu nei puta ake ai ngā tiere kōwhai. Acá eso tipo se llama cereza paloma, kei konei huaina ai taua momo ko ngā tiere kūkupa.

Ka tae ki te kāinga, ka tangohia māngongetia ngā pūeru, ka oma atu ki te hīrere, ā, te pai o te wai makariri!

Nō reira, kei konei ahau e noho ana... Engari kāore rawa koutou e kite atu i a au e hāte-kore ana. Kua nui rawa te puku i la comida chilena! Tēnā, pēhia te whakaahua kia kite pai ai i ngā tiere.