¡Ladrones! Tāhae!

Engari ngā hanga rere kē e pā ai ki te tangata i te rangi kotahi!

I muri i te parakuihi i el Café Valerio (kua mōhio pai mai ngā meseros), ka haere mātou katoa ma runga tēkihi ki te wharetaonga waihanga, el Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. Kei reira ngā mahi a ngā tohunga katoa o te ao waihanga – ko ā Dégas, ko ā Monet, ko ā Klee, ko ā Goya, ko ā Mea, ko ā Mea. Koina te hanga rangatira o te rā!

Ka hoki māua ko Aroha ma raro i te mea me peka atu ki te teihana Retiro hoko ai i ngā tīkiti ki Rosario. Kua hoki kē tōku māmā ma runga tēkihi, ā, kua hīkoi karatete atu a Valerie – i te aha, mā wai e hua? Ka tae atu ki te teihana, ka kite i ngā tohu e mea ana kua hokona katoatia ngā nohoanga tereina ki Rosario, nō reira ka haere tonu ki te teihana pahi i tērā atu taha o te mercado San Martín.

Na, ka taha atu i te mākete. I te mau taku kēhi kāmera me taku pōtae, a Chepe, i taku ringa mauī. Kātahi anō ka rongo i tētahi e kāhakihaki ana i te kāmera, kua uru atu te ringa o te tāhae i raro o te paki o te kēhi. Ka huri atu au ki te mamau i taua tangata rā, ā, ka rutua ki te papa, ko ia i raro.

Kua tīhaea atu te paki, ā, ka rere atu te kāmera ki te papa. I te ngana au ki te pupuri ki te tāhae me te toro atu ki te kāmera. Kātahi anō ka rere mai tana hoa, ka tangohia ake te kāmera, ka oma atu ai rāua ko tētahi atu hoa ki muri i ngā whare. Ahakoa taku hiahia kia mau ki te tāhae tuatahi kua whakawarea e ērā atu, ā, ka okeoke atu ia, na, ka oma atu. I te karanga atu a Aroha, “Koretake!” ki a rātou, ā, ka ngaro.

Ka tū ake ahau, ka tahitahi i ngā pūeru, ka tiki i te ringa o Aroha whakamākoha atu ai, ā, ka tahuri ki te teihana pahi. Ka whakatata mai tētahi tangata me aku mōhiti (i roto hoki i te kēhi i te taha o te kāmera). I te aroha mai ngā tāngata, engari ka taea te pēhea? Kua tūpono ngā mahi katoa i te tūrehutanga kanohi. I te tī noa a Aroha i te mataku me te riri, engari i te wherū ke au. Ahakoa tērā he taha koa tōku i rutua ai te tāhae tuatahi ki te papa. Koina te hanga kino o te rā!

Kei te whakaaro tonu mo te tokotoru rā. He taitamatāne, 17 rānei, 18 rānei te pakeke, he pai noa iho ngā pūeru. Kāore i tūkino mai, ko te kāmera anahe i hiahiatia ai. Kāore i tino moe inapō i te hurihuri o ngā whakaaro.

I taku ringa tonu te kēhi, me Chepe. Ka whiua atu te kēhi, ka haere ki te hoko i ngā tīkiti. Ka hoki atu ki te hōtera o aku whaea kōrero ai i te whānako. Ka mutu, ka hokona he kāmera hōu, ā, ka hoki ki tō māua hōtera. Ka hīrere horoia ai i aku tūnga, he rakunga noa iho. Ka tūtaki anō i ngā whaea ka peka atu ki te hapa. I runga i ngā tiriti ngā tini pepa, hurihuri noa. Ka pātai atu ki ngā kaitahitahi mo te take, ko tā rātou he tikanga argentino no te tau hōu. Ka pātai atu mehemea e hoha ana rāua, ka mea mai kāore, e rata ana rāua ki te tikanga!

I te 10:30 pm ka wehe atu aku whaea ki te taunga rererangi, ā, ka hoki māua ki te hōtera whakaaroaro ai i ngā tēnei ao rere kē e noho nei tātou!

Los difuntos - te hunga mate

Kāore anō kia oho i te wā e tika ana kia parakuihi i te hōtera. Ka tūtaki māua i ōku whaea i el Café Valerio. Ka mutu, ka hoki tōku māmā ki te moe, i te māuiui tonu. Ka haere mātou ko Valerie ma raro ki te toa pukapuka, ko El Ateneo. He toa nui rawa atu i roto i tētahi teatro (whare whakaari) tawhito. Kua huri te atamira hei cafetería, ā, kei te wāhi nohonoho ngā pukapuka. I runga rā he pēita e iriiri ai ngā anahera i te tuanui.

Ka wehe atu a Aroha rāua ko Valerie ki ngā toa pūeru, ā, ka noho au ki te tirotiro haere. Ka hoki mai rāua ka peka atu mātou ki te kai. Ka ngata te hiakai, ka haere tonu ki Recoleta. He barrio tino pai, he maha ngā whare ātaahua, he Wīwī te hanga o te nuinga o ngā mea tawhito.

Ka kuhu atu ki roto o te urupā o Recoleta. He ao anō, me he tāone mo te hunga mate! He wharekōiwi nō terā whānau, nō tērā whānau. I roto i te nuinga he arapiki e heke ana ki raro i te whenua. He karāehe i roto i ngā kūaha e kitea atu ai ngā kāwhena. Ka aroha hoki ētahi o ngā wharekōiwi, kua mahue e te whānau. I reira hoki te takotoranga o Eva Perón. E hia kē ngā whakaahua i tangohia!

Ka hoki ki ngā hōtera. Ka hokona he kai mā tōku māmā, ka haere ai te toenga o mātou ki tētahi parilla (wharekai rorerore). Ka kī rawa te puku, ka hoki ki te moe. Me iti iho gte kai!

Más sorpresas

Ka oho tōmuri anō i te ata nei, he tōmuri rawa mo te parakuihi o te hōtera. Engari he pai noa iho i te mea kua tino rata ki te wharekai o te koeko keke! Ka mutu te whakauru i ngā kōrero katoa ki te rātaka ipurangi, ka wehe atu ki San Telmo. He rongonui taua barrio nei mo te mākete taonga tawhito.

Ka haere ma raro ki te marae i mua i La Casa Rosada, ā, ka huri atu ki te tiriti La Defensa. Engari te ohorere! Mo te roanga o te tiriti, tae noa ki te mutunga o te tirohanga atu, kua huri hei mākete! Me te pai o ngā taputapu – he mea kiri kau, he kapu maté, he pēita, he aha, he aha! I reira hoki ngā kaiwhakaari (he pērā me te tangata mau hūtu).

Ka nui hoki ngā wharekai, na, ka peka atu māua ki tētahi ko La Raya te ingoa. I roto rā, he rite ki te tiriti, nō reira he papa kōhatu, ā, he mata toa i ngā pakitara. Ka puta ka uru atu ki roto i ngā toa. Ko tētahi i tino rata ai ko te toa waihanga. Te pai o aua mahi waihanga, ahakoa tīhāte, ahakoa tāre, ahakoa pouaka! He nui te utu o ngā taonga, engari he huarangi hoki.

Ka tae ake ki te plaza e hokona ai ngā taonga tawhito ka kite i tētahi tokorua e kanikani ana i te tango i waenganui i te tiriti. Ka tū ki te tangotango whakaahua i te pai o tā rāua kanikani.

Ka huri atu ki te rapu i te pāka taiao engari kāore i tae atu ahakoa te roa o te hīkoikoi. I te mutunga atu i hoki atu ki te hōtera o ōku whaea. I roto kē rāua i tō māua wharekai parakuihi. Kua māuiui tōku māmā, ā, ka hoatu i tana tīkiti mo te tanguería (he wāhi e whakaatu ai i te tango) ki a Aroha, me tana tohe ki te hoko ($150 Aotearoa!) i tētahi anō māku.

Kāore i te tino hiahia kia haere ki te whakaaturanga, te hē hoki o aku whakaaro. He rawe rawa atu te whakaaturanga. He pai rawa te kai i mua. Otirā ko ngā kaikanikani me ngā hunga pūoro me ngā kaiwaiata ngā whetū o te pō! Ka whakaaturia ngā momo tango – kanikani, pūoro, waiata – me te pūoro o ngā Andes (El Cóndor Pasa etc.), ā, ka tere te toto i aua waiata, ahakoa. Ko te mea tino pai rawa ko te kaikanikani gaucho (kaupoai argentino). Ko tētahi o ngā taputapu hei hopu i ngā hipi me ngā kau ko ngā mea e rite ana ki te poi, engari he mārō rawa (i te mea he kōhatu ngā poi ake!). Ka mīharo atu māua ko Aroha ki tōna kaha ki te karawhiu i aua boleadoras. Kei pōhēhē tātou i tō tātou rerenga kētanga!

Engari a Buenos Aires... he tokomaha atu ngā tāngata o La Ciudad de México, engari he tino tāone a Buenos Aires, na te nui pea o tōna pūtahitanga. Me ngā bonaerenses (ngā tāngata o Buenos Aires), he iwi motuhake.

El bullicio de Buenos Aires

Koina a Buenos Aires! He tāone nui rawa atu, me ngā tiriti e toritori ana i te tini o te tangata, ahakoa tiriti whāiti, ahakoa tiriti whānui. Me te whānui hoki o aua tiriti whānui! He kaitā noa ngā whare, ahakoa te tawhito. Kāore he tohu o te horonga ohaoha o te tau 2002. Noho roa ngā tāngata i ngā cafeterías inu ai i te kawhe huarangi o Argentina, he medialunas (parāoa marama hotu - croissants). E rua ngā tiriti e rīpeka ana, ko Lavalle me Florida, mō ngā tāngata anahe. I te ahiahi ka whakatakoto te hunga hokohoko i ngā hīti e takoto ai ā rātou taputapu. Kei tāhaki ngā kaiwaiata me ngā kaikanikani. Kite ai hoki i ngā whakaminenga tangata e karapoti ana i ngā payasos (tāngata whakaari, whakakatakata). ¡Me encanta Buenos Aires!

Kei te noho māua i te Hotel Goya. Kāore pea he whetū (!), engari e tata ana ki ngā mea whakaihiihi. Inanahi i tae mai taku whaea me tōna teina i Iguasú. Ko te āhua nei i tino pai te terenga i San Francisco, hurihuri noa ki Río de Janeiro. Ka haere atu mātou katoa ki El Café Tortoni kai ai i te almuercito. He wharekai ātaahua i hangā i te tau 1858. Kātahi ka peka atu ki La Casa Rosada, te whare e noho ai la presidenta. Koina hoki te whare i tū ai a Juan rāua ko Eva Perón.

I te marae i mua i La Casa Rosada ka kitea te wāhi e hīkoikoi ai ngā wāhine kei te whakamaumahara i te iwi ki ngā tini desaparecidos de la guerra sucia (te hunga i ngaro i te 'pakanga paru'). Ka aroha hoki, los resultados de la dictadura.

I te ahiahi, ka noho taku whaea i tō rāua hōtera, i te ngenge noa, i te mamae hoki o te humu. Ka haere mātou ko tōku whaea kēkē, a Valerie, ki te mātakitaki i tētahi tanguera (he whakaaaturanga i te kanikani tango) i te tiriti. Ka ngenge ngā waewae ka peka atu ki te wharekai ko Broccolino para cenar. Ka hoki ki te hōtera i te 1:30 i te ata! Ā, la vida hispana...

Na, kua tae ki tēnei rā tonu. Kua oho tōmuri mo te parakuihi o te hōtera, nāwai rā ka haere atu ki te cafetería para desayunar (ko te koeko keke i whirihia ai!) me te tonu i ngā tini kōrero nei ki te rātaka ipurangi.

Colonia del Sacramento (24 – 26 de diciembre)

Ka tae atu ki Colonia, ka haere tika ma runga tēkihi ki tō māua wharenoho, La Posada del Río. Te waimarie hoki, he rūma e wātea ana. Ka tika māua ki te hīrere, engari te paru o te wai i rere atu! Ka peka atu ki te tāone tina ai, ā, ka hoki ki te posada moe ai.

Ka oho hōu, ā, ka haere atu ki te wāhi  e waea atu ai ma te Skype ki te whānau i Aotearoa. Kāore rawa tētahi wāhi i kitea. Nāwai rā ka mea tētahi kia haere atu ki te plaza, he wāhi waea kore, te plaza katoa! Ka noho ki te waea atu, ka kōrero atu ki a Ruakiri rātou ko Ngāti Pirihi, ā, ka haere koa atu ki te kimi wharekai.

Kua kī te mea tuatahi me te mea tuarua, ānō ko Hōhepa rāua ko Maria i te pō i mua i tērā atu Kirihimete. Kātahi ka tae ki tētahi, ehara te hanga i te tino pai engari i te wātea ngā tēpu o mua. Ka tonoa tētahi o ngā tēpu, ka mea te mesero (tūmau tamatāne), ‘No señor, tenemos mesas mejores por el otro lado en el jardín.’ (‘Kāo, e hoa, he tēpu ā mātou i tērā atu taha i te māra.’)

Ka whai atu māua i a ia ma te whare kia puta atu ki te māra. Engari te ātaahua o taua māra. He raiti huhua i roto i te rākau nei, ā, kei waho te awa e tere ana me ngā tini rama o Colonia e kapokapo ana – he ao tupua. He rawe te kai, he rawe hoki te waina.

Ka tata ki te tūruawēpō, ka pātai atu ki te mesera (tūmau wahine) mehemea e raruraru ana i te mahi i te pō nei, i te mea ko te Noche Buena (te pō i mua i te Kirihimete) te wā e tino nui ana ki ngā latinos. Ka mea mai ia he uaua māna, i te mea tokorua ana tamariki i te kāinga. Ka kōrero hoki māua mō ā māua tamariki tokotoru. Ka mea ia, ‘¡Ay, y aquí estamos!’ (‘Aī, kei konei kē tātou!’). Ka tae ki te tūruawēpō, ka kite i ngā tini mura kāpura e rere ake ana ki te rangi. Ka kimi atu i te mesera, ā, ka kite atu i a ia i te taha o te ahi e tangi ana mō āna tamariki. No te kitenga atu tīmata ai hoki māua ko Aroha ki te tangi! Ehara hoki i te mea ko mātou anahe. Ka haere mai te mesero ki te miri i taku pokohiwi. He iwi tino aroha te hunga latino. Ka wehe i te wharekai, ka awhiawhi i te wahine me te mihi ki te tamatāne.

Ka hoki ki te plaza, ka waea atu anō ki Aotearoa kōrero ai ki a Ngātarawāhi. I te mahi tonu a Tīaho. I reira māua i te plaza i Uruguay, i te 1:30 i te ata, i te pōuri, e noho ana i te uranga o te rorohiko, e kōrero ana ki tā māua tama i tāwāhi!

Ka oho i te ata, ka piki ki runga parakuihi ai. I te mea kua pau ngā moni katoa i te wharekai i te pō i mua, ko tā māua mahi ko te kimi cajero (mīhini moni) e tangohia ai ngā moni. Kāore taku kāri i whakaaetia. Te waimarie i whakaaetia ai te kāri crédito o Aroha, engari e 200 pesos uruguayos anahe, arā, e $14.50 Aotearoa! Ahakoa te cajero, kāore taku kāri i whakaaetia, na, ka mau te pōnānā! I muri i te wā roa i kitea te cajero nō tētahi atu hunga, no REDBROU, ā, ka whakaaetia. Kātahi te koa!

I te toenga o te wā i Colonia, ko tā māua mahi ko te hāereere i ngā tiriti marumaru o te wāhanga tawhito, i te taha hoki o te awa, ā, ko te kai i ngā wharekai pai rawa atu. Ka peka atu ki te whare karakia tawhito, nā ngā Portugueses i hanga. Otirā, i roto kua hangaia te ‘ana’ mo te Kirihimete i roto i tētahi o ngā rūma ki tāhaki. Kua whakamahia te pepa parauri kia rite ai ki te kōhatu, ā, he pākoro anō, he pākoro anō e kitea ai ngā āhuatanga o te whānautanga o Ihu Karaiti.

I tēnei wāhanga o te ao ka nui ngā tauira o te te whānau tapu, engari kāore te pēpi Karaiti e whakatakotoria tae noa ki te Noche Buena, arā, te tūruawēpō o te 24 o Tīhema, hei tohu i tōna whānautanga.

I te ahiahi o te 26 o Tīhema, o te rangi i 52 ōku tau (viejo, calvo, gordo – ¡ay, ay, ay!), ka eke anō i te waka hoki atu ai ki Argentina. Ka nui tonu aku mihi ki Colonia, koina tētahi o ngā tino wāhi i tae ai māua ko Aroha!

El tren terrible

Kotahi tekau mā rima hāora, koina te roa!

Ka tae atu ki te teihana, ka kite atu i ngā wākena hakataka o te tereina ka mōhio ai ki te hē o ngā whakaaro. Ka eke ki runga – auē! He wini pakaru, kāore hoki ētahi e kati rānei, e huaki rānei. Me ngā tini tuhituhinga i runga i ngā pakitara!

Ka noho ki ō māua tūru. Ka tūtaki i tētahi tangata no Chile. Ko te āhua nei, he rerenga no te wā i a Pinochet. Hei hoa kōrerorero mo te haerenga. Ka wehe te tereina, ka tau haere ngā whakaaro. He rawe te tōanga o te rā i waho, i runga i te whenua papatahi o La Pampa.

I te taha o te ara tereina he rori motukā, he rori puehu. Koina, he tika tāu! Nāwai rā ka kī te tereina i te puehu. Ka mārō rawa ngā makawe, ka kī te ihu me ngā taringa. I a Aroha he pepa horoi mākū. Ina murua te kanohi ka paru rawa te pepa.

Me te moe – ¡imposible! Kāore ngā rama i weto, he tāngata hoki e kōrerorero ana mo te pō katoa. He maha hoki ngā tūranga tereina, e heke ai, e eke ai ngā tāngata. Ka tautohetohe mō ngā tūru, ā, me noho tahi māua i te tūru whāiti i matangurunguru ai te tou.

Ko te kīnaki (!), ko te wharepaku. Kāore he heketua, he pūare noa iho, me ngā tapuwae rino e rua e koromeke ai te tangata. Taku waimarie kāore i te hiatiko. Engari, i te mea kāore te kūaha e kati tika, me tū me tētahi waewae kei te kūaha me tērā atu e tae ai te mimi ki te rua kei tawhiti. He mea whakamā te whākī atu, kāore ngā mimi katoa i tae atu ki te pūare, engari ehara au i te tangata tuatahi i hē ai. Ko ngā tohu kei ngā pakitara, me te haunga, me te hōpua kōwhai e teretere ana i te nekehanga o te tereina.

Kotahi anahe te mea pai o te tereina, ko te kawhe, bueno, estamos en Argentina.

Ka tae ohere, ka tae paru, ka tae amuamu ki Buenos Aires. Ka whakawhiti i te tereina ki te subte (metro), ā, ka tae atu ki te teihana Lavalle. Ka piki ki runga, ka puta ki tētahi o ngā tiriti apiapi rawa o Buenos Aires. Me te maha o ngā whare rakurangi! Ka noho ki te parakuihi i te taha o Juan (el amigo chileno). Ka mutu, ka poroporoaki i a Juan (engari kāore i mua i te kōrero hamu – i a Aroha i te wharepaku), ā, ka haere mā raro ki te wāpu Buquebus, me te maleta (tūeke) e takatakataka ana!

Ka hokona ngā tikiti, ka eke i te peripoti, ā, ka whakawhiti atu ki ... Uruguay!

Bahía Blanca

Ehara rawa i te pō e whakaau te moe. I te mea he tangata au e moe ai i runga i te puku, es casi imposible dormir i runga i te tūru. Me te mea hoki, i te tūruawēpō tīmata ai tētahi pikitia hoihoi rawa atu! Te waimarie o Aroha, ahakoa te mahi a te mataraumati. Ka tae ohere mai māua ki Bahía Blanca.

 Mai te taenga atu, ka rata au ki te tāone o Bahía Blanca. Kei te nuinga o ngā tiriti he rārangi rākau e whakamarumaru ana i te ara hīkoi. Ko te nuinga o ngā whare nō tērā atu rautau. Engari aku wawata mō tērā whare, mō tērā whare! Ka noho mātou i te Hotel Múñiz, he hotera tawhito, engari he pai rawa. Titiro atu ai i tō māua rūma ki te plaza me ngā whare rangatira e karapoti atu ana. E rua ngā pō i reira. Ahakoa ehara te wharekai tuatahi i te tino pai, he tino pai ērā atu. Me te hoihoi o roto! He iwi e rata ana ki te kai me te inu kawhe mō ngā hāora e hia kē!

Ka peka atu ki te whare pukapuka titiro ai. Ahakoa kāore i īnoi atu ka haere mai tētahi wahine ki te ārahi i a mātou ki ngā wāhanga katoa o taua whare. Koina te marae o te iwi nei.

Ko te tikanga, i te haere atu ki te taha o te Atlántico inaina ai i te one, engari i te taenga atu ki te teihana tereina, ka huri ngā whakaaro kia haere tika ki Buenos Aires. Engari te pōhēhētanga ko tērā....